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Thread: First time spraying Kandy & Flake

  1. #1
    Casual Cruiser

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    First time spraying Kandy & Flake

    My first guinea pig for getting my colors and pattern ideas down for my car was one of my bass guitars.

    Definitely need more practice.... I had a lot of mistakes but that's how we learn right?
    Next up will be my Sportster gas tank.


    any seasoned painters experienced in flake and kandy feel free to chime in! I could use all the help I can get!






    **also, if anyone knows how to get YouTUbe thumbnails to post please let me know**
    Last edited by Nic; 08-06-2015 at 01:31 PM.

  2. #2
    ♠ LBCC British Columbia ♠

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    Looks pretty awesome to me!

  3. #3
    Harvey's Front Row

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    I can dig it. Nothing to it but to do it.
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  4. #4
    ♠ LBCC Nor Cal ♠

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    Looks pretty good from here. I am far from an expert but one big lesson I've learned over the years is to take it slow. I used to think you were supposed to get a fade down in one pass, maybe some people can do that but it's a lot easier to get good results going slow, shooting kandy thin and clear thick, and doing multiple fogged coats. I've also come around on using intercoat clear for kandy, it's the right way to do panels, otherwise your paint gets way too thick fast and you'll get runs.

    As far as the youtube links, I edited your post to have the thumnail. Our board has a macro to create a thumbnail link that doesn't like https, use http instead (just delete the s from the link), and you can use the [video] tag around the link and it'll auto generate the thumbnail

  5. #5
    ♠ LBCC High Desert ♠

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    Looks good Alex! Can't wait to see some of this on the car!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nic View Post
    I've also come around on using intercoat clear for kandy, it's the right way to do panels, otherwise your paint gets way too thick fast and you'll get runs.
    Yup, KK Kandy Koncentrate in SG-100 Intercoat Clear. Especially small panels, stripes, graphix, etc.
    1969 Mercury Montego MX -- ¡Cállate la boca!
    Roach Motel II -- 1968 Fairlane 500 Wagon

    "Two on the street is worth more than 20 on the board." -- 64sled

  6. #6
    Casual Cruiser

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    Thanks guys!!! The root of my problems started right at the flake. I did a BC-02 (silver HOK) base coat, and then shot flake over it. I used a mixture of heavy .025" flake and some .015" flake, both silver. I used SG-150 flake and pearl carrier for this step and a gravity gun with a 2.5 tip.
    Getting the gun to keep from clogging was a bit of a learning curve for me... so in the end I had way to many coats of flake and some nasty runs. (yes, runs in the flake... lol) At this point my dad advised to let it setup for a day, hit it with 600 to remove the runs, and then re-flake it since I had the gun working as close to OK as I could get it.

    Next day I did just that, and put another 2-3 coats of flake so that I had about 80% coverage over the silver base coat. I lay'd about 3 coats of regular clear (HOK) over it and let it set for another day.

    Next, I sanded again to knock down the high spots, taped off my stripes and did the lace. I used regular HOK black base coat for that. let it setup for about 30min and on to the kandy....

    In total I lay'd down 5 coats. I should have kept them thinner coats, and used the "fogging" methoud as well. I had a color sag in one spot, and it just didn't lay down as evenly as I would have liked. I waited about 10min between coats. (RU-311 reducer, shop temp at 71deg) and about 35-40min before next step.

    after the Kandy, I did two light coats of small blue flake, over everything including the lace panel, using SG-150 as a carrier. let set for about 30min, then onto final clear.

    I did a "no-no" on the final clear... I ran out of RU-311 with my last Kandy coat so I had to use some of my dad's Urethane reducer. Maybe some of you can chime in if this causes any problems or not... but in a couple spots, the Kandy actually shifted, or moved, and showed some silver flake!!! It was almost like it "re-activated" and then started to sag a little. I'm really wondering where this came from. Did I not let it setup enough before final clear?? Non HOK reducer"??

    All in all, it was meant to be a lesson so I'm not too worried on the mistakes... but I would definitely like to know why the Kandy sagged after top coat clear was applied!

  7. #7
    Casual Cruiser

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    Oh yea, on the bike tank I'll be doing next I'm going to shoot the heavy flake with a dry gun....

  8. #8
    ♠ LBCC Chicagoland ♠

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    The way we did my roof was no base. All flake, shot the flake in that inter coat stuff. Pretty much the flake is the base coat. I think we used .8 flake. My buddy Kendall also mixed the candy with that inter coat stuff. As far as I know the flake is going to react and move and shrink up. Hell its been about two yrs and my roof shrunk up again.
    But you are shooting some big flake. Best advice I can give is watch you tube hahaha


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    ♠ LBCC British Columbia ♠

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    More dry time and lighter coats of everything except the final clear should help things out. I did candy in some patterns but didn't wait long enough between coats and it lifted the tape and ran into the other stripes. Kinda ruined that night

  10. #10
    Harvey's Front Row

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    You probably won't be happy with a dry gun. Also, the bigger the flake the less it will dance. Standard flake is even a little too big. Mini flake offers the best combo of size and twinkle in my opinion. As far as shooting it, nothing beats an agitator gun. You can actually watch the flake lay like a normal metallic orientation coat. I highly recommend that you try to find one, especially if you plan on shooting more flake in the future.

    We also suspend flake in SG-150, as it is a little heavier than 100, which allows for good flake suspension without mil build one would see with clear. Candies in intercoat mixed to desired darkness allows a myriad of possible tones. We have yet to have issues with shrinking, but climate and wait times might differ. We do have one top doing something weird. The process wasn't changed so it might be product related.

    Edit again: I missed your larger, step by step post somehow. That probably means something. Anyway, using a different reducer is a no-no, but it should not have "reactivated" the clear. My very first paint job outside of jambs was the silver base on my top. If a mistake could be made, I made it (including listening to others). I based it so heavily that a clear sag on a c pillar pulled the metallic. It had to be because even though I thought I adhered to flash times, the coats were so heavy that they did not really flash in that given time. Subsequent coats likely trapped solvents which allowed the metallic to move since it was essentially "reactivated" by the clear. My best guess, anyway. It sounds like you might have done the same. As far as fogging versus heavy handed candy application, I will mix a candy to a shade of my liking (based on the end result I desire and how many shades I want available with different coat counts), and spray it about the wetness of base: pretty much medium wet all the way through besides the last. Everyone I have ever talked to about it shoots about same, which is largely why I do. I don't just ask anyone. It seems to work. Your flake coats should be fogged, just like an orientation coat. I can't stress the greatness of an agitator cup. They don't clog, they lay flake evenly, and you get 90% or better coverage with three or four coats. It is a beautiful thing.

    The most important part of all this to me is that you are doing it. That is cool. Keep experimenting and never take it too seriously. It is too fun for that.
    Last edited by Chopped63; 08-07-2015 at 10:18 PM. Reason: My yellow is not very mellow.
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  11. #11
    ♠ LBCC High Desert ♠

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    ^^ I'd say he covered this pretty well. Thanks Brett. Your happy birthday is posted in another thread

    J.
    1969 Mercury Montego MX -- ¡Cállate la boca!
    Roach Motel II -- 1968 Fairlane 500 Wagon

    "Two on the street is worth more than 20 on the board." -- 64sled

  12. #12
    Casual Cruiser

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    Thanks so much for the tips and advice guys, I appreciate it!!!

    So I can just add the Kandy Koncentrates, at desired amounts, to the SG-100? Just reduce per normal and spray? I will try this on my next go-around!!! Doing this would also allow me to knock down orange peel in each layer too, wouldn't it? (1000grit or so)

    Also, Chopped, I think you are correct with my incorrect flash timeouts. My dad said he always uses fast reducer over the medium, so I will probably try that as well. (He's been spraying in that shop for decades)

  13. #13
    Harvey's Front Row

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    Yep. That is how I mix it. I also mix it by pouring and reducing the SG-100, then adding the KK. I have not experienced any poor spraying from the paint acting under-reduced. A way around this that I have never done could be to mix the SG and KK in one cup, then pour it into another for reduction. That would likely give the most true reduction. Another thing I have found is that if I pour the KK to the darkness I want and spray, it is too light. Too cautious I guess. Now I pour until it looks right, then go a little more. I am sure others can chime in and say I do it wrong, but it is how it has always worked for me. It is the only thing I eyeball when mixing, another no-no. Hahaha. If you can get a hold of a tech sheet, it probably offers a better starting point. Been a while since I have seen one. If I remember I will ask the HoK rep next time he comes to the shop how he mixes and sprays just for fun. If I am wrong, I will post the correction. Proper, or close to proper, reduction will get rid of the texure. The Kandy should lay down about as smooth as base or at least as smooth as 1:1 reduced SG-100 lays.

    Yes, I edit posts a lot. Thinking too much is a curse. Good luck spraying.
    Last edited by Chopped63; 08-10-2015 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Metacognition
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